The quiet golden beaches and ancient landscapes of the small island of Djerba are a haven of calm and beauty. According to legend, this land, where the air is full of the rich fragrance of the Mediterranean, inspired Homer when he wrote the Odyssey, and over 400 archaeological sites pay witness to the land's long history.

Homer tells how Ulysses, fleeing from the siren's haunting song, came across a beautiful island where delicate fruit grew: the home of the Lotus Eaters. All the sailors tasted the strange fruit – which some believe may have been dates – losing all memory of their homes and loved ones; only Ulysses himself abstained and so was able to save his crew and continue on his journey through the Mediterranean. Perhaps the people of Djerba are immune to effects of the fruit, as they tell this tale with pride, and bewitch the traveller with their warm and friendly welcome.

One of the biggest attractions of the island, set in the Mediterranean, off the coast of Tunisia, is the beautiful whitewashed city of Houmt Souk, steeped in history. Here, the traditional medina and souks are marvellous for the traveller who wants to wander looking for unusual gifts, or sit and unwind over a cup of coffee, and the port, bustling with fishing activity, boasts many restaurants where freshly caught seafood can be enjoyed.

The city is home to three mosques, as well as the old stronghold of El Kebir, dating from the thirteenth century, which down through the years has served as garrison to Arab, Spanish and Turkish troops. Djerba is known as the 'island of a hundred mosques', and numerous ruins remain, dating from the Middle Ages; free of opulence and grandeur, their simplicity affords a fine example of Mediterranean Islamic architecture.

Just ten kilometres from the capital is the palm-fringed town of Guellala, famous for its bright ceramics. In the centre of the island, the cobbled streets and flower-decked courtyards of the biblical city of Er Riadh are the perfect setting for strolling around and exploring, and the town offers one of the island's most important sights, the synagogue of El Ghriba.

The monument bears witness to the rich Jewish heritage of the island, which dates back 25 centuries, just after the destruction of the Temple of King Solomon. Each year, in May, the synagogue is transformed into an African Jerusalem, but at all times, the interior, with its rich lattice of stained glass and tiles, is a haven of peace where the faithful pray in the cool shade.

In Djerba, the markets are practically addictive. Don't miss the Friday market in Midoum, or the one in Houmt Souk on Monday mornings. The main attraction are the beautiful handmade carpets, but there is also fine leatherwork and jewellery, particularly amber.

Djerba enjoys a mild climate, and another great way to discover this, the largest north African island, is to make a tour of its beaches; from the exquisite outlying areas of Sidi Bakour, along the coast as the whim takes you, the jasmine-scented air caresses the soft contours of the land. The island is small and flat, so it's ideal for cycling; an even better idea is to take a camel ride, perhaps a less relaxing option, but well worth the effort.

Source: Hello Magazine [June 14, 2011]