“Keep Ithaca always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
So you are old by the time you reach the island,
Wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
Not expecting Ithaca to make you rich.
Ithaca gave you the marvelous journey.
Without her you would not have set out.”
The theme of the poem is that what people should seek is enjoyment of the journey of life as well as increasing maturity of the soul. If such an attitude toward life can be considered characteristic of cultured souls, the visitor to this Ionian island will notice that this is exactly what Odysseus’ descendants are -- strongly inclined to the arts and letters.
It is therefore not surprising that Ithaca -- known to Greeks as Ithaki -- is one of the most civilized places to spend a holiday, away from the noise and madding crowds.
Despite its relatively small size (96 square kilometers), Ithaca in its heyday -- around 1000 BC -- was the center of a kingdom which included all the Ionian islands off Greece’s western coast. Discoveries of Linear A script testify to the inhabitation of the island since prehistoric times. In more recent centuries, Ithaca’s trajectory followed that of neighboring Cephalonia, with successive Byzantine, Venetian, Turkish, French and British occupations until the Ionian Islands joined free Greece in 1864.
Despite extensive archaeological excavations, Odysseus’ Homeric capital has not been found. This may be due to the many catastrophic earthquakes that have repeatedly razed man-made structures on the island through the centuries. The terrain is craggy, verdant and spectacular, ideal for trekkers and for exploring archaeological sites and caves. The beaches are typical of the Ionian Islands, with picturesque bays and azure waters. The difference on Ithaca, however, is that they are all quiet. Even those considered developed are not packed with sunbeds and umbrellas hogging all the best places. Here, they let you pick your own spot before bringing you an umbrella and setting it up for you.
Ithaca comprises two small pieces of land of about equal size and linked by a narrow isthmus. The main village of Vathy is in the southern part, built around a fjord-like bay, and leaves visitors with a lasting impression as the boat enters or leaves. It is not hard to imagine that this is where Odysseus longed to return to. The view of the traditional one- or two-floor houses, separated by narrow alleyways, against the background of the green Mt Nerovoulo, adds to the charm. A stroll along the seaside promenade before sunset is a must if you wish to fully appreciate the tranquillity that Ithaca offers.
The nearby Cave of the Nymphs with multicolored stalactites is where the Homeric hero was said to have hidden the gifts of the Phaeacians, who dropped him off at the bay asleep. The island’s longest road, 25 km, linking Vathy with Kioni, in the north, will bring you to Ai-Yiannis, the island’s most beautiful beach, strewn with thick pebbles and with crystal-clear waters. Be sure to take enough fresh water with you. Make a small detour to see the Katharon Monastery and stop for coffee at the shaded square in Stavros, further north. Another small detour in a northwesterly direction will bring you to Exogi, which offers absolutely superb views of the surrounding islands and the Ionian Sea.
Kioni is one of Ithaca’s most attractive settlements, rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake. Its small harbor, once a pirate hideout and now lined with cafes, restaurants and bars, hosts dozens of yachts during the summer months.
Finally, east of Vathy, the winding road will bring you to two very attractive beaches, Filiatro -- with amazing deep turquoise waters and a mobile canteen selling refreshments -- and Sarakiniko, a small picturesque harbor.
Author: Haris Argyropoulos | Source: ekathimerini [December 22, 2010]